Hook:
Surrounded by water and struggling to breath I keep thinking i’m never going pop up. But before we move on let me take you back… Lewis and I pace along the beach trying to find a good spot to sit down before are feet set on fire. Struggling to get my damp wetsuit on I look out. The sets are big and the waves are looking so smooth this could be the gnarliest it’s been all week. Lewis and I ready to go we walk down the beach towards camel rock and start paddling out back. The power of the waves when duck diving was scarily strong, gripping my board so tight trying to use my board to stay afloat. Finally sitting out back, rolling over the waves as if it were a roller coaster I wait for the perfect set to come in. I realise how surreal this place looks it’s kinda like a giant football stadium and all the houses are just looking down towards the
water for 24 hour entertainment. It’s even got mascots at either end, camel rock and lion rock. Feeling the current suck me out further I look back and holy shit there is a monster brewing up back there I reposition myself and prepare for what’s either gonna be the most legendary thing ever or the most un legendary thing ever. The sets coming in and i’m shitting myself. Looking over my should the wave starts picking me up, kicking as hard as I can I drop in on the demon and i’m absolutely cutting it sick. I’m getting to the end of the wave and I see it closing of. Wanting to stick this wave I turn in and carry it all the way to shore. Walking out I notice that i’ve traveled from one end of the beach to the other I had no clue how long and big that wave was. I see lewis waiting at the other end of the shore as I walk back up the beach. we go back
out there and were shredding sets just waiting for that 7th set to come back around. And if you didn’t know each 7th set of waves that come through are significantly bigger than the others. Sitting out there for what seems like hours Lewis and I spot the 7th set coming in and it’s even bigger than the one before. Turning around the wave swoops me up out of nowhere scared for my life I start paddling as hard as I can, the lips curling over me and i’m still not shredding the barrel this can’t be good. Boom smacks the lip and in skidding down the face of the wave like a biscuit behind the dirty harry. Coming to afloat I see the wave towering over me knowing I don’t have much time before this thing eats me I dive. As soon as i’m under the water I feel the wave smack the water on top of me she’s coming back for more. Crashing on top of me it pushes me against the sand like a angry drunk white guy. Trying to stay
calm while getting minced is hard. Surrounded by water and struggling to breath I keep thinking i’m never going pop up… Finally I pop up it felt like I was under there for hours panting like a dog and wanting to throw up I catch the next wave in. Walking up the beach I start coughing up water. I lay down to try and let my body recover after the waves beating. So in conclusion the ocean is a very dangerous thing without all the sharks. It will easily kill you or injure you badly if you don’t know what your doing make sure you stay within your ability and check in with a lifeguard before going out.
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